Shoe and method of making the same



Oct. 10, 1939. R. c. JOHNS 2375,295

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME I Filed March 14, 1938 Patented a. 1c, 1939 UNITED STATES. PATENT OFFICE.

SHOT AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Raphael Clay Johns, Melrose, Masa, assignor to United ShoeMachinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J., a corporation or New Jersey Application March 14, 1938; Serial No. 195,694

Claims. (CL 12-142) This invention relatesto a shoe and a method of making it, and more particularly to a stitchdown. shoe having a multilayer stiffener.

In that form of stitchdown shoesknown as ski boots it is necessary that the toe portionof the upper be very stiii and strong, since such a shoe it held on a ski for the most part by a toe strap which passes over the. toe portion of the shoe. In order to provide a stitchdown shoe 10. with a toe portion of this kind, the present invention provides a method by which there is incorporated in the shoe a multilayer toe stiffener of which the lower margin of one layer extends inward beneath the insole and the lower margin of another layer extends outward above the outsole. In the illustrated shoe the toe stiffener consists of two layers of stiffening material firmly bonded together, an inner layer which adheres to the lining of the shoe and has its lower margin extending inward upon the overlaste'd margin of the lining, and an outer layer which adheres to the upper as well as to the other layer and has its lower margin extending outwardabove the midsole, the outturned margin of the outer layer together with that of the upper be ing stitched to the midsole. By incorporating in a shoe a multilayer stiffener of this kind, the layers of which are firmly bonded together and fastened in place',-there results a shoe having a very strong stiff toe portion.

Referring to the accompanying drawing,

Fig. 1 is a plan view of the inner layer of a toe stiffener;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the outer layer;

Fig. 3 is a longitudinal section of the toe portion of a partly fabricated shoe on a last ready to have the multilayer stifl'ener applied to it;

Fig. 4 is a longitudinal section of the toe portion of a finished shoe; and

Fig. 5 is a perspective of a molded multilayer stiffener.

The shoe may be made as follows: The outer materials including an upper I and a lining 9 are assembled together with an insole ll upon a last I00, cement having been applied to the inner face of the lower margin of the lining. The outer materials are pulled over; the upper is pulled back, and the lining is lasted. The partly fabricated shoe is now at the stage of manufacture shown in Fi 3, ready to receive the multilayer toe stiffener. This stifiener may be of any suitable material, for example a porous base impregnated or coated with a thermoplastic stiltening substance or with a substance such as Celluloid which becomes soft and sticky when treated with solvent. Assuming that the stiffener is of the latter type and that the layers are to be applied separately, the inner layer l3, having been treated with a liquid which renders it limp and sticky, is placed upon the toe portion of the lining 5 and its lower margin bent inwardly beneath the insole and pressed against the overlasted margin of the lining 9. A midsole I5 is tacked to the last. An outer layer ll of the toe stiiiener is treated with liquid as was the layer 03 and is 10 placed upon the layer l3 with its lower margin resting on the midsole. The margins of the layers are preferably skived, and the outer layer is somewhat larger than the inner layer so that the rear margin in particular of the multilayer 1 stiflener presents a thin edge. The toe portion of the upper I is brought down into place over the layer 11, and the toe portion of the shoe is subjected to the action of a toe forming machine to conform the toe portion of the upper to the toe 20 portion of the last and to form outturned flanges upon the lower' portion of the upper and upon the lower portion of the layer II. The upper is then lasted and the midsole attached by stitches l9 conveniently by using a stitchdown 25 lasting machine, the stitches l9 passing through the outturned margins of the upper and the layer I! as well as through the midsole. The outsole 2| is laid and, together with a welt 23, is fastened in place by stitches 25. 30

Instead of incorporating the multilayer toe. stiflfener in the shoe in the manner which has been described above, it may first be molded into the shape which-it is desired to have in the finished shoe. In.such casethe manufacture of 35 the shoe proceeds as outlined above until the shoe reaches the stage illustrated in Fig. 3. The toe portion of the lining is then coated with cement, and the molded toe stiffener is put in place.' The midsole is fastened to the bottom of the 40 last and cement is, applied to the exposed surface of the outer layer ll of the stiffener. Thetoe portion of the upper I is drawn down, and the forming of the toe portion of the upper, the lasting of the upper including inserting the 45 stitches l9, and the laying and attaching of the outsole follow in the manner described above.

It will be understood that the lining may be provided with a doubler and with an additional thickness or lining material at the toe portion, 5a the term lining being intended to cover all such elements. It will also be understood that the midsole may be omitted if desired. It'wili be noted that the outturned flange of the layer I1 is narrow so that its edge will not show in the 55 flnished shoe, and that to compensate for the diflerence in width between this flange and the flange on the upper, a welt 23 which is thicker at its outer edge than at its inner edge is preferably employed.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to .secure by Letters Patent of the United States is: T

1. The method of manufacturing a stitchdown shoe which comprises mounting assembled upper materials including an upper and a lining together with an insole upon a last, lasting the lining over upon the insole, placing a layer oi' stiffening material upon the toe portion 01' the lining and lasting it over upon the overiasted margin of the lining, fastening a midsole to the last. placing a second layer of stiflIening material upon the first layer, laying the toe portion 01' the,

upper over the second layer, forming upon the margin of the upper and upon the margin of the second layer outturned flanges, Iastening these flanges to the midsole, and thereafter fastening an outsole in place.

2. A stitchdown shoe having a multilayer toe stlflener of which the lower margin of one layer extends inward and the lower margin of another layer extends outward.

3. A stitchdown shoe having a multilayer toe stiflener of which the lower margin of one layer extends inward beneath the insole and the lower margin 01 another layer extends outward above the outsole.

4. A stitchdown shoe having a multilayer toe stiflener of which the lower margin of one layer extends inward upon the overlasted margin oi the lining, and the lower margin of another layer extends outward and is fastened together with the outturned lower margin of the upper-to the midsole.

5. A molded toe stiflener consisting of a plurality of layers the lower margin 0! the inner layer extending inward and the lower margin of a superposed layer extending outward.

RAPHAEL crlav JOHNS. 

